Submariner or Sea-Dweller? Exploring Rolex’s Dive Watch Lineup

Rolex has long stood as one of the defining names in watchmaking technology. Long before such solutions became industry standard, the brand pioneered key waterproofing innovations such as the screw-down caseback and screw-down crown, laying the foundation for the modern high water-resistance wristwatch.

Today, with the Oyster Perpetual Submariner as its most iconic benchmark, Rolex continues to produce a range of dive watches that combine proven reliability with true professional capability, making the brand’s dive watch lineup one of the most recognizable in the industry.

The Evolution of Rolex Dive Watches

Rolex launched the Oyster Perpetual Submariner in 1953, at a time when professional diving demand was growing and scuba diving was becoming popular. The watch offered 100 meters of water resistance and was one of the few models suitable for professional use at that time, laying the foundation for future tool watches.

The Submariner featured a rotating bezel and highly readable dial, along with the Twinlock double waterproof crown that offered groundbreaking water resistance for its era. Later, Rolex developed the Triplock triple waterproof crown, raising water resistance to 300 meters. As the Submariner evolved, higher-end models appeared, keeping water resistance and readability while meeting more professional diving needs. By 2022, Rolex released watches able to withstand pressures at the deepest parts of the ocean, reaching 11,000 meters. In recent years, the series has expanded with more case materials and colors, meeting broader market needs beyond professional use.

Oyster Perpetual Submariner

The Submariner, introduced in 1953, became the foundation of modern diver’s watches. Current models offer 300 meters of water resistance and come with scratch-resistant, UV-resistant Cerachrom ceramic bezels and highly visible ChromaLight luminescence as standard.The design has largely remained unchanged since the first model, but it has received multiple upgrades that balance practicality with elegance. The color options are diverse, suitable for business or casual occasions, making it a classic diver’s watch with both function and style.

The Submariner line includes no-date models. The Submariner Date is also available. Current models mainly use Oystersteel. Date models come in 18K yellow gold Rolesor, full 18K yellow gold or white gold.

Submariner No Date Ref. 124060 

This no-date Submariner pairs a black dial with a matching black Cerachrom ceramic bezel, creating a clean classic look. The current model introduced in 2020 increased the case diameter from 40 millimeters to 41 millimeters; slimmed the lugs; widened the bracelet; overall proportions were adjusted for a balance of tool-watch functionality with stylish design.

Submariner Date Ref.126610LV

The current Submariner Date also comes in a 41mm Oystersteel case, with the signature Cyclops lens over the date at 3 o’clock for improved legibility. The combination of a black dial and green Cerachrom bezel insert first appeared in 2003 to mark the model’s 50th anniversary and has remained one of the most beloved configurations in the Submariner lineup ever since.

Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

In the 1960s, saturation diving became practical, allowing deeper and longer dives. Rolex responded with the Sea-Dweller in 1967, featuring a helium escape valve that automatically releases helium molecules trapped inside during decompression, preventing the crystal from breaking or damage during ascent. The original Sea-Dweller had 610 meters water resistance. In 1978, after cooperating with French diving company COMEX, it reached 1,220 meters. Current models have 43mm cases and are available in Oystersteel and Rolesor with 18K yellow gold, combining professional function with premium materials.

Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Ref.126603

126603 is powered by Rolex’s self-winding Calibre 3235, featuring 31 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and approximately 70 hours of power reserve. The watch comes in a 43mm case and is configured in Rolesor, combining Oystersteel with 18K yellow gold, while maintaining the Sea-Dweller’s robust 1,220-meter water resistance.

Released in 2019, it marked the first Rolesor model in the Sea-Dweller family. The bezel, crown and center links of the bracelet are crafted in 18K yellow gold, while the hands and hour markers are accented with gold surrounds. Even the Sea-Dweller signature on the black dial appears in gold, preserving the tool-watch character of the line while introducing a more refined, elevated presence.

Oyster Perpetual Deepsea

Introduced in 2008, the Deepsea represents the top tier of Rolex’s dive-watch lineup. Its extreme water resistance is built around the brand’s patented Ringlock System, which combines a thick domed sapphire crystal, a nitrogen-alloyed steel compression ring and an RLX titanium caseback. This structure allows 3,900 meters of water resistance. The 2022 Deepsea Challenge can handle 11,000 meters pressure, making extreme water resistance available for general buyers. Current Deepsea models come in Oystersteel and 18K yellow gold Rolesor, while the Challenge model uses RLX titanium.

Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Ref.136668LB

126613LB is powered by Rolex’s self-winding Calibre 3235, with 31 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and around 70 hours of power reserve. The case measures 44mm and is crafted entirely in 18K yellow gold, delivering a formidable depth rating of 3,900 meters. Released in 2024 as the first full yellow gold Deepsea, with a thick gold feel and strong presence. Dial and Cerachrom bezel are bright blue, contrasting with the shiny case. The Ringlock system uses blue ceramic instead of nitrogen-alloy steel to create a unified look.

Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge Ref.126067

126067 is powered by the self-winding Calibre 3230 with 31 jewels, beating at 28,800 vph and offering an approximate 70-hour power reserve. Housed in a 50mm RLX titanium case, it delivers an extraordinary depth rating of 11,000 meters. Inspired by the 2012 prototype that accompanied James Cameron to the Mariana Trench. To reach 11,000 meters, it has a 9.5mm domed sapphire crystal, a 50mm diameter and 23.3mm thick case. RLX titanium keeps high performance while maintaining wear comfort. This is one of the most romantic over-spec watches.

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