A Watch for Crossing Time Zones GMT Watch Buying Tips and Recommendations
- coolwatchgo1
- 6 days ago
- 4 min read
When moving from a pure three-hand watch to a more advanced timepiece with added functions, the most representative and worthwhile complication to understand is the GMT function. A GMT watch does more than display two time zones. Its practicality and design logic make it an ideal choice for a cross-time-zone lifestyle. Whether for international business or overseas travel, it combines a sporty character with a professional presence. This article explores the appeal and operation of GMT watches and highlights three representative models as a reference for practical wear and entry-level collecting.
What Is a GMT Watch?
Among the many watch complications, the GMT function is one of the most suitable for daily wear while offering both practicality and appreciation value. GMT-equipped models from various brands are designed around the concept of displaying multiple time zones at the same time. With an additional GMT hand, the watch can show a second time zone alongside local time. Some designs, using the bezel or scale layout, allow a third time zone to be read as well.
GMT Function Explanation
In 1884, the International Meridian Conference established GMT, Greenwich Mean Time, as the global reference time. This standard originated from the Greenwich Observatory in London, located at longitude 0 degrees on the Prime Meridian. Since 1972, global time zones have been regulated by UTC, Coordinated Universal Time, based on atomic clocks. Even so, in watchmaking, the term GMT is still widely used as a general reference for multi-time-zone displays.
A typical GMT watch shows local time with the hour, minute and second hands, while an additional GMT hand completes one rotation every 24 hours to indicate a second time zone.
In 1955, Rolex introduced the world’s first GMT watch, the GMT-Master. Even after UTC became the international standard, the watch industry continued to refer to second time zone displays as GMT functions. Some brands, such as IWC and Sinn, choose to call this feature UTC instead.
How to Use a GMT Watch
GMT watch operation varies by brand and movement design but the basic logic is the same. By adjusting the hour and minute hands together with the GMT hand and reading the 24-hour scale on the bezel or inner ring, a second time zone can be displayed. Some designs also allow a third time zone to be read.
Using the Rolex GMT-Master II as an example, the process starts by setting the rotating bezel to its neutral position with the 0 on the 24-hour scale aligned at 12 o’clock. Pull the crown to the second position to adjust the GMT hand and minute hand together. Align the GMT hand with the 24-hour bezel scale and set the minute hand using the dial markers to complete the home time setting. Push the crown back to the first position to adjust the hour hand independently for local time. By rotating the bezel afterward, the GMT hand can indicate a third time zone against the 24-hour scale.
Key Points When Choosing a GMT Watch
GMT watches come in a wide range of styles and designs. To find the most suitable one, focus on two main points: dial legibility and case size that fits the wrist.
Because GMT watches display more information, dial legibility is critical for daily use. Pay attention to the thickness and color of the GMT hand to ensure the current time can be read quickly and intuitively. If the GMT function is not used frequently, time reading will mainly rely on the hour and minute hands, so it is best to avoid bezels that are too visually dominant as they may reduce clarity.
Comfort is closely related to size. GMT watches with rotating bezels tend to look larger on the wrist. Generally, wrists on the slimmer side suit cases under 37 mm, average builds work best with 38 to 42 mm and sizes above 43 mm create a stronger presence, making them more suitable for taller or more solidly built wearers.
Popular GMT Watch Recommendations
When it comes to GMT watches, Rolex is the benchmark brand. Its sister brand Tudor has also become a popular choice thanks to strong value and distinctive design. Below are three widely recognized models covering different styles and positions.
Rolex GMT-Master II “Batman” Ref. 126710BLNR
This watch is powered by the automatic Cal. 3285 movement with 31 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The 40 mm Oystersteel case offers water resistance to 100 meters.
Originally introduced in 2013 as Ref. 116710BLNR, it was the first GMT-Master to feature a blue and black bezel and became the origin of what is now known as the Batman colorway. In 2019, the successor Ref. 126710BLNR was released and the earlier model was discontinued. The new version adopts a five-link Jubilee bracelet and remains highly popular for its sporty look and versatility across business and casual settings.
Rolex GMT-Master II White Gold Ref. 126719BLRO
The Ref. 126719BLRO shares the same functions and specifications as the steel GMT-Master II but features an 18K white gold case.
Released in 2019, it uses the iconic red and blue bezel, one of the most representative configurations in the series. In addition to the blue dial version, it is also available with a meteorite dial made from genuine meteorite material. Within the GMT-Master II line, the 126719BLRO is currently the only model offered with a meteorite dial, making it especially distinctive.
Tudor Black Bay GMT Ref. M79830RB-0001
The M79830RB-0001 is powered by the automatic Cal. MT5652 movement with 28 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and approximately 70 hours of power reserve. The stainless steel case measures 41 mm in diameter, 14.52 mm in thickness and offers water resistance to 200 meters.
This GMT model features no crown guards and pairs a vintage-style red and blue bezel with a black dial. The bezel uses slim Arabic numerals and a coin-edge finish, while the hour, second and GMT hands all use Tudor’s signature snowflake design. The overall style leans toward a retro sports aesthetic.
In recent years, Tudor has increased brand visibility through sponsorship of the Rugby World Cup. In 2021, its Ginza flagship store was upgraded to the TUDOR BOUTIQUE BOLTE GINZA with integrated online shopping functions, further strengthening the brand’s image and market position.
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