Rolex Perpetual 1908 Platinum Returns to Its Brand Origins

In 2023, Rolex introduced the entirely new Perpetual 1908, establishing a fresh benchmark for the classic dress watch. The following year, the collection expanded with additional materials, including a platinum version featuring a guilloché dial adorned with the Rice Grain motif. This refined decorative technique, executed using traditional craftsmanship, represents a design language rarely seen in Rolex’s history, reflecting the brand’s ongoing pursuit of richer aesthetic expression in watchmaking.

Guilloché Defines a New Aesthetic for Rolex

The Perpetual 1908 in yellow gold, first model in the product line first introduced in 2023, immediately drew attention. Its name references the year Hans Wilsdorf laid the foundation for Rolex, symbolizing the brand’s return to its origins. With the introduction of the Perpetual 1908, Rolex not only revisited its heritage but also marked the end of the Cellini era.

Introduced in 1968, the Cellini collection differed significantly from the Oyster Perpetual. Rather than focusing on durability and functionality, Cellini emphasized elegance and aesthetics. While Cellini represented Rolex’s artistic side, the Oyster collection evolved into professional tool watches designed for specific purposes, giving rise to icons such as the Submariner, GMT-Master and Cosmograph Daytona.

One of the key inspirations behind the Perpetual 1908 can be traced back to the original Oyster Perpetual introduced in 1931. However, as Rolex diversified its collections in the early 1960s, its philosophy evolved. The idea of owning different watches for different occasions gained popularity, paving the way for the creation of Cellini as a dedicated dress watch line.

Half a century later, Rolex returns to this territory with the Perpetual 1908, continuing its historical legacy while redefining the brand’s vision of the classic dress watch. Hans Wilsdorf’s innovative spirit laid the foundation for Rolex and the Perpetual 1908 carries that spirit forward, reinterpreting the brand’s most timeless elements through a modern lens.

The Perpetual 1908 incorporates many traditional dress watch characteristics, including a small seconds display, a domed crystal and the signature fluted bezel. Its dial remains clean and understated, while the case maintains elegant proportions and a slim profile. The in-house Caliber 7140 reinforces the watch’s classical character while ensuring modern performance, achieving a balance between tradition and contemporary watchmaking.

In 2024, Rolex introduced the platinum version of the Perpetual 1908. Its dial features the traditional Rice Grain guilloché motif, creating a striking visual effect. Compared to earlier versions, the platinum model further demonstrates Rolex’s commitment to evolving classical watchmaking.

A New Dimension of Elegance

For Rolex collectors, the most striking feature of the platinum Perpetual 1908 is undoubtedly its ice-blue dial. This distinctive color is reserved exclusively for Rolex platinum models and symbolizes the brand’s highest tier.

Platinum is one of the densest and heaviest metals, known for its exceptional corrosion resistance and stability. It also offers excellent malleability and durability. However, platinum is extremely difficult to polish and finish, requiring highly skilled craftsmanship. Rolex uses only 950 platinum, containing 95% pure platinum and manufactures these precious components in-house to ensure the highest quality standards.

The platinum Perpetual 1908’s Rice Grain guilloché dial stands as its defining feature. The watch is powered by the automatic Caliber 7140, with 38 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of approximately 66 hours. The platinum case measures 39mm in diameter, 9.5mm thick and is water resistant to 50 meters.

The Captivating Rice Grain Guilloché Dial

Beyond its ice-blue color, the Rice Grain guilloché motif defines the Perpetual 1908’s dial. Arabic numerals appear at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock, while a small seconds display sits at 6 o’clock. Faceted 18K white gold hour markers complement the sword-shaped minute hand and elegant Breguet-style hour hand, creating a harmonious and refined appearance.

While the original Perpetual 1908 already made a strong impression, the addition of the Rice Grain guilloché elevates the watch to another level. The intricate pattern spans the entire dial, while additional guilloché detailing along the minute track enhances depth and visual complexity.

A Timeless Case

The platinum case, measuring 39mm in diameter, features elegant proportions and a slim silhouette. The bezel combines domed and fluted elements, while the polished platinum surface conveys understated luxury.

Despite platinum’s weight, the watch offers exceptional comfort on the wrist, reflecting Rolex’s mastery of structural design. At just 9.5mm thick, it fits comfortably while maintaining robust construction and 50 meters of water resistance.

Advanced Watchmaking Technology

The Caliber 7140 is an automatic movement developed specifically for the Perpetual 1908. It features Rolex’s proprietary Syloxi silicon hairspring, Chronergy escapement and Paraflex shock absorbers, delivering excellent precision and approximately 66 hours of power reserve.

The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback and features refined finishing, including Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration and an openworked rotor in 18K gold bearing the Rolex crown.The Syloxi hairspring and Chronergy escapement ensure accuracy of −2/+2 seconds per day, exceeding COSC chronometer standards. The watch is paired with a matte brown alligator leather strap lined with green calfskin. It is secured by a platinum Dualclasp folding clasp, offering both comfort and secure fit.

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